Tuesday, December 26, 2006

Christmas in Siam

Thank you all for your thoughtful inquiries and concern about my Christmas out here. It was lovely, actually. In a determined effort to make it as un-pathetic as possible, my friend, Sarah and I did everything we could to conjure up nostalgia and warm-fuzzies of Christmas past. While I thought it would be far cooler to sit alone in my room with a bottle of Jack Daniels and a packet of cigarettes, teaching myself to smoke (you know - stories for the grandkids), it was a beautiful day and I felt quite interesting and, well... grown up in spite of myself. Sarah and I sat amid lighted candles, a screensaver fireplace, complete with real crackling sounds (when looking at that while holding our hands in front of the candles, I could pretend it was a real fire), a modest little pile of presents, and tepid apple juice out of a box that we passed back and forth (it's LIKE cider). We watched the only English language Christmas movie we could find in town (anyone ever heard of "Christmas with the Kranks"? It's a real classic, let me tell you). It was even a little cold. A friend who lives out in the beautiful country an hour outside of Mae Sot invited us for lunch, and I nearly made myself sick on mashed potatoes, which was all I really cared about. It was a peaceful day, and I have managed to avoid the Jack and Marlborough's for at least this year.

Pictures to come...

I am so blessed to be here, having the opportunity to do what I am most passionate about. I am still a little in awe of a God that allows us the chance to live from our deep hearts; to live fully and vibrantly. As a Norwegian friend observed yesterday, "Christmas isn't just for the Christians". Indeed, how much God desires for all of humanity to discover the joy and the hope possible through His life and death; how He has come to fulfill our deepest longings and restore us to that for which we were created. Christmas seemed very real to me this year, and the message of the Gospel so very tangible - how Christ came to restore and to heal and to fulfill. May our eyes be opened to how we can be an extension of His love and restoration to a broken world. May we choose to see the suffering of those around us - because, my friends, suffering is all around us; whether we see it or not is our choice. In Mae Sot and refugee camps and IDP areas and Oklahoma City and Charlottesville and New York and Omaha. May God continue to break our hearts for those around us; may we CHOOSE to see their needs. We have been given so much...

Thursday, December 21, 2006

Ringing in the New Year, Karen style

The Karen New Year celebrations are bigger in the refugee camps than even across the border in Karen State, Burma. (Though please don't ask me about the cultural or historical background of Karen New Year - I don't know). I went to Mae La camp for the festivities where there was dancing, singing, football games, and rice wine for all. Peace, man

Sassy Karen women





Photo op with the football team

Winter has finally arrived to Mae Sot. Everybody has been telling me it has been winter for a month-and-a-half, which has utterly exasperated me. "What do you MEAN how I am handling the cold?! - It's 95 degrees!!" Three days ago however, without warning, it felt like the cold front from the North Pole rolled in. It it cold. I am in three layers of shirts as I type. Hang on, I'll check the Weather Channel so I can accurately report..... According to weather.com it is currently 55 degrees here. Don't laugh - I'm freezing! Everyone is running around in parkas and wool hats too. I wish I had a parka this morning, bike riding to work with wet hair - not fun. Well, I might not be having a white Christmas out here in Siam, but as least I will have a cold one.

On an entirely unrelated note - can anyone tell me WHY the sidebar of my blog is showing up at the bottom of the page? Better yet, can anyone fix it for me? It's getting really annoying. I have a funny feeling that the problem and the solution has something to do with the template in HTML code. So if any of you techies out there could find it in your heart to assist an, er, technologically challenged blogger, I would be eternally grateful. Really, I would. Send me a photo and I shall even devote an entire post to praising your HTML skills. I will send you dried seaweed. I will name my firstborn child after you (unless you have a weird name, in which case we will just use initials)...

Sunday, December 17, 2006

Afternoon musings

So I have decided this blogging thing is far more difficult than I would have thought. I am not very good at it either. It doesn't seem nearly exciting enough to write about the mundane (and yes, even doing what I am doing, living a few kilometers away from what some consider to be a genocidal war, has incredibly mundane days. In fact, most of my life rests somewhere between mundane and uninteresting) and the note worthy doesn't seem to occur on a frequent enough basis to write about it. Faithful readers, I salute you. (Hi Mom). For reading when I don't write about anything interesting, and checking dutifully to see if I even found the mundane to be inspiring. Not that I am not inspired. Oh no, there are far too many cultural stimuli, things to learn, intense life-on-the-border stories, food to try, random/strange/just really weird travelers and ex-pats that live in Mae Sot, to ever make life boring. It has though, I suppose, settled into some type of norm; a routine. And it is always difficult to write about routine. So read on if you don't mind hearing of the mundane, or are just bored at work and feel free to leave a comment if anything strikes you (though, if that's just you, Mom, maybe just email).

A quick rundown of Amy's Week in Mae Sot:
I was in the office, a lot. I recognize that every cool job has an uncool, necessary subset. For me, that's paperwork. If I am not in the refugee camps interviewing incredible families with fascinating stories (cool) I am in the office for days at a time typing up reports and recommendations from the interviews (not cool). I don't mind the office that much. There is good coffee to drink all day, so that helps. And, I am still thrilled to death to have the chance to do what I have dreamed about for so long, so it makes everything ok. Though if I could create a world that did not include the words "report", "word attachment", and "editing revisions" I believe life in general would be better.

I interviewed an older Karen couple with the cutest little boy I have ever seen. He is seven. And orphaned. And applying with his doting, adoptive parents for resettlement to Canada. And he has HIV. As I swung him around the room, doing my special routine of Which-one-of-us-will-get-dizzier-and-fall-over-first, and he screamed and clung to my neck as his eyes rolled back in gleeful terror, I realized how lucky I was to be there, at that moment, and be blessed by the life of the little boy I twirled around in my arms. He wants to be a doctor when he grows up, he informed me seriously. Canada = medical care, citizenship, a future.

I have discovered a sort of really-small-border-town-in-Thailand rendition of a gym, which I have attempted to frequent nightly. They have 4 sets of weights, 2 elliptical machines (which I thought were only used by sorority girls with swinging ponytails who were already in shape but have actually discovered that I actually like them (elliptical machines, not sorority girls)), 2 treadmills, 8 stationary bikes, and 3 incline benches. Not exactly a Gold's Gym, but it's something. At least I don't have to resort to "lifting" my Nalgene bottle, filled to the top with rocks, which I did faithfully in Benin for a year-and-a-half. There is no AC and it is quite stinky, but it is something.

Attempting to come up with a creative solution to my bathroom sink, whose plumping is nonexistent, leaving the water to go down the drain and out a pipe that empties, sink level, on my feet. It really is gross. I mean, take the brushing-teeth dilemma. So I spit in the sink which them empties spit and toothpaste on my feet. Or even not as bad as that is the equally-gross hand or face washing dilemma. In this dilemma, I wash my face or hands because they are dirty, and then all dirty hand/face washing residue either runs all down my leg or splashes up on me if it happens to miss my leg directly and hit the tiled floor first. It is kinda like taking a bath and shower at the same time with already-used-bath water when all I want to do is rinse off my contacts. Why the owners/builders of the apartment complex could not have just finished the plumbing like they do everywhere else in the developed world, or even not completed the plumbing at all, but run the pipe - which is already in existence - out the wall I don't know. That would have worked out just fine. Cut a little hole in the wall and run the pipe outside. Problem solved. I am tempted to cute a whole in the wall myself, but am afraid I won't get my deposit back (fifty bucks is fifty bucks). My technique right now is a simple, albeit only mildly effective one: I put the sink drain plugger (does that thing have a name?) in the drain, but only partially plugging it. So, that way, the toothpaste/soapy/makeup/contact goo/dirt water only trickles down to my feet, instead of gushing and splashing everywhere. I could get a bucket to put under the pipe-that-should-be-running-out-the-wall-dangit that could catch all of the water, and just empty it when it got full, but the thought of a that amount of dirty toothpaste/soapy/makeup/contact goo/dirt water sitting around in a bucket dissolving and not dissolving and rising to the top and sticking to the edges really grosses me out. Then I would have to empty it. Then what am I supposed to do with it? I can't carry the bucket outside - or I guess I could, but people would see me and get all disgusted at the weird white girl that collects gross water in her bedroom. And if I dump the bucket out down the drain in the bathroom, it will splash all over me, I might as well not have even bother collecting it in the first place. A real dilemma, I tell you.

As you perhaps have ascertained, it hasn't exactly been a thrilling week out here. But it has been a good one. It has been one where I have learned to depend a little more on God, to choose to be content even if I am not necessarily feeling inspired, and realizing that I make the choice to be happy; I make the choice to live fully and with purpose today. And these are good things to remember.

Rattana Manion a.k.a The Disney House. When I moved in, I asked if I could choose my apartment by the color. They said no.

Thai-style toilet. Posing many logistical issues, as you can see. As far as I can tell, peeing on one's feet is unavoidable under these conditions. And yes, the bucket of water is used for rinsing.

Wednesday, December 06, 2006

There's a Hole in the World Tonight


Courage, it would seem, is nothing less than the power to overcome danger, misfortune, fear, injustice, while continuing to affirm that life with all its sorrows, is good; that everything is meaningful even if in a sense beyond our understanding; and that there is always tomorrow."
~ Dorothy Thompson


I have spent the past few days in Mae La camp, interviewing several families that are applying for resettlement to Norway.

Today was a very sad day for Mae La and the Karen community. A woman in the community, active in SGBV (Sexual and Gender Based Violence) initiatives and programs, was killed last night. She was stabbed to death 8 times by her husband, who then put a knife through his own heart, in front of their daughter. After her death, it was revealed that this women, such a strong leader in women's rights advocacy, suffered herself from an abusive marriage for over four years and ultimately died in a horrific act of violence. The husband's motive is unknown.

One family has been in the camp nearly twenty years - their children have never seen the outside of the gates. The surrealness of it all stuck me, sitting on the bamboo slats of the floor of their home - yet completely normal at the same time. I tried to sort through decades of family history, making notes and families trees and timelines in an attempt to dissect their past. Families are complicated - all families, no matter the family or the country; but here, one must factor in the havoc wreaked by war to the normal family's complications. So much havoc... families separated when the army burned down the their village; or killed their spouse; or forced their grandmother to be a porter, beating her if she stumbled; of children sent away to a refugee camp simply so that they could go to school; of sickness that plagues and often takes the lives of those in hiding in the jungle, where malaria is a rampant killer. Most family's complications are not encumbered by these...

I spoke with Wah Lay today, a quiet 14-year-old who used to live with his parents and siblings in Karen State, Burma, in an area controlled by the DKBA (Democratic Karen Buddist Army). the family lived in fear of DKBA soldiers' frequent "visits" where money was taken, children were recruited as soldiers, and women were raped. For the right price, a household would be left alone. As a Christian in a Buddhist controlled area, DKBA took every opportunity to persecute the family, and others regardless of their religion. Poor farmers, Wah Lay's family eventually reached the end of their resources to bribe the military. The soldiers stormed in their home one afternoon and demanded their fee, which Wah Lay's father was unable to pay. "Fine", they snapped, "we will take your son instead. He looks big enough to hold a gun." Wah Lay was 11 years old. They were to return for him the following day. Hours later, under the cover of darkness, Wah Lay and his father fled the village and trekked through the jungle for two days and two night until they reached The Big River separating Burma and Thailand and... safety. Wah Lay was left in the care of an uncle in Mae La camp. This afternoon, his face very still as he relived the memory of just how close he came to being one of the thousands of Burma's child soldiers, he would not meet my eyes. He is excited about going to Norway, where he wants to study to be a doctor.

I sat cross-legged against the bamboo walls, eating red bananas and drinking water from a chipped mug with "Go Huskies" printed on the side. Oh Burma! When will you stop the persecution of your people? When will you hear their cries for a homeland? They long to return, but you have crushed their hopes...


Preparing sugar cane